A walking distance away from Kadiköy market (read post here>>>) is Moda, for which I have a particular fondness since this is actually the neighborhood where I was born and grew up.

My personal feelings aside, Moda is known for its pleasant tea gardens (image below) which are aligned on a clifftop that overlooks the Marmara sea and the historic peninsula across the water. Also  another thing that Moda is famous for is ice cream, therefore walking up to Moda after you have had your fill at Kadiköy market might be a very nice idea. 

Not that Moda itself is short of good eating places: Lots of sit-down fast food joints, as well as a very nice kebap house and a historically famous tavern.

Kebap restaurants are usually very nicely done up, especially the ones that also serve raki. Columbo used to look like hell until not so long ago, recently they got refurbished. Bit over the top with those neon thingies if you ask me, but they are very proud of it themselves.

And why "Columbo"? Remember the TV series? Used to be hugely popular around here back then. The owner was a complete buff and so Columbo, which is a hardcore Turkish kebap house, was named after the American detective.

Koço was founded back in the '30s, as a reaction to a private club that was opened in Moda back then. Most people living in the neighborhood were considered to be insufficiently chi-chi to gain membership (my grandparents included, I should add). So Mr. Koço started this tavern right across the street from them and of course it very quickly became one of the most popular places around.

And as for me, growing up in this neighborhood, I remember a lot of family gatherings here. And I used to come here a lot with friends as well. Hadn't been in ages until I popped in to shoot the photo - ouch! So, the old waiters greeted me like a prodigal daughter. :-D

A raki meal at Koço, where the food is delicious by the way, will cost between 30 to 50 Euros, depending on how much you eat and drink. A kebap meal with soft drinks at Columbo will be from 12 to 20 Euros, one with raki between 30 and 40. Since Columbo is a tavern as well as a kebap house there will be tapas which you can enjoy with the soft drinks as well. And for tapas do not forget to have Lahmacun (the Turkish meat pizza). Also try İçli Köfte (a special meat ball with a bulghur covering) and even Çiğ Köfte (the Eastern Anatolian steak tartare).

For me the best ice cream ever is Ali's ice cream in Moda. Again, I may be biased due to childhood memories, however the crowds in front of the place seem to substantiate my claim. (I waited for quite a while for some lull in customers so that I could take this shot. Normally the front of the window is 3 deep). The custom is to buy your cone and then amble down to the tea gardens where you wash the sweet aftertaste away with tea.

View Kadiköy in a larger map

To get to Moda walk up to Moda Caddesi from Kadiköy market and then follow the street until it branches into two parts to form a little square with cafes all around it. Ali's ice cream will be on your right. To go to the tea gardens take a right; to get to Koço, keep left and walk all the way down to the shore. 

Also if you go all the way down, there is a cafe located in what used to be the historic ferry port of Moda. Haven't tried this place myself, but I am told that it is very pleasant sitting on the water and that the food is excellent. Incidentally, this is a place run by the city of Istanbul (, hence only soft drinks and tea/coffee with your food. The prices are regular cafe prices, so having a meal there will cost you between 8 and 15 Euros.

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